4 days traveling by car in Western Nebraska and South Dakota
Starting point: Nebraska Destination: South Dakota
Aug 2009 Bill and I took a long weekend to hike and explore the western National Parks of South Dakota for a getaway. We didn’t have a schedule but to spend our days in the parks and explore from sun-up to sunset. This is one of our first South Dakota trips together and we enjoy it so much that we keep returning to the solitude of the Black Hills National Forest and surrounding National Parks. Drive through our 4-day trip and see what your next adventure holds.
- Carhenge: Central Nebraska to Alliance, NE
You have to start somewhere; we started on our 4-day trip to South Dakota by driving west across Nebraska. Hwy 2 is an easy highway to drive along and took us right to Alliance and Carhenge structure in Western Nebraska. Stonehenge is a very well-known structure, but Carhenge is much more local.
In a field outside of the town of Alliance, we walked through the iconic stone structure. Only it is made of CARS instead of stones. It’s an easy walk around from the parking lot to the surrounding area that has abstract art structures.
There is a cute little gift shop on the property. It has a very roadside stop feel to it. After driving for 4 hours this was a great stop to walk.
- Nebraska National Forest: North to S Dakota:
After Carhenge, it’s only a 2-hour drive north on hwy 385 into South Dakota. The views north from sandhills, to bluffs, to rolling hills. This area is home to the Nebraska National Forest, and we drove through it on our path.
We made frequent stops at the outlook parking areas. Trails through the grassland takes you on easy walks and views.
https://www.fs.usda.gov/nebraska
- Wild Life of the Grasslands
Ogalala National Grassland greets you from the Western Nebraska side into South Dakota. Once we entered into South Dakota and drove through small quant towns. Watch out for wildlife along your way. The best time is at sunrise or sunset to see the animals out and about. We never seem to time it out that way and somehow still end up lucky to see a few.
Antelope are definitely out and about, often seen in herds. Don’t just look to the roads but through the grass. Trails are present through the Grasslands, but I would suggest staying in the vehicle when close to animals is best.
- Wind Cave National Park : The grass above and the cave below
Like many caves around the US, there almost is a two-worlds to visit. As we drove through the park there are many tree covered grassy areas to explore. With over 30 miles of trails to hike you could be busy most of the day.
It’s a beautiful drive through the park on your way to the visitor center. Put the windows down, open your eyes, and listen to the wind pass your ears. I can see why so many motorcyclists ride the Black Hills area of the state. This section just feels like the beginning to the adventure.
We drove to the Wind Cave National Park Visitor Center. The Visitor center was where we signed up for the tour of the cave. Then we walked through the guided cave. Guided tours are the best because they can tell you not only the history of the cave exploration, but the science behind the cave and ecosystem that lives there. They also point to the recognizable features that I would equate to spotting animals in the clouds.
It’s an amazing journey below what you can normally see of the earth. Open atriums that they can use for short tours. Beware: tight spaces are present.
Make sure to get your tickets early and pick the type of tour to do off of the descriptions and your stairs capability.
- Custer State Park: Buffalo and Prairie Dog Town
Going north of Wind Cave NP on Hwy 385 to Custer and go east on Hwy 16A to the park entrance. If you don’t have S. Dakota State Park, expect to pay to enter the park. $20 per vehicle for 7 days allows you to drive back through at any point in your stay if you decided you missed something. We ended up going through 2 times since we are a fan of Needles Highway that is located within the state park grounds.
Many of the park areas have a prairie look covering the hills. Buffalo are roaming in herds. They have a roundup each year, look ahead at park events on their website if you plan to go during the event. Or like us, look ahead to not experience the crowds that can happen with big events. Buffalo are so big, and the first Buffalo was right within the ranger station entrance.
Drive down the main roads will create a scenic loop to follow. Watch for Prairie dog town, not hard to miss. It’s a hill right next to the highway where hundreds of prairie dogs just poked their heads out and talked to you.
Stop on the side of the road at turn offs and take out your camera. As you can see, they like the attention. They look really cute, but just like the Buffalo you need to keep to yourself and just observe.
- Needles Highway and Sullivan Lake: Best views of Black Hills National Forest
Roads within Custer State Park allow for you to cover the park in a really large circle and if needed can return to your starting point. Turning north on hwy 87 from the South entrance you enter Needles Highway.
The best views and trail access road in the area.
I would highly suggest stopping at every turn off that is possible. Take your time to walk to the overlooks. Driving through is spectacular, but if you haven’t seen this area before you will want to take the time to absorb it. Bill didn’t get a chance to really see the amazing views as he was driving.
Needles highway is a twisting and winding road going up on the tops of the Black Hills. Plan a few hours to drive the highway. We really enjoy short hikes around a mile. So, between the overlooks, hikes, lakes, and driving time you can spend one day in this area alone.
Hwy 87 northwest will take you towards Hill City. Make sure to stop at the Needles Scenic Overlook, Needles Eye, and Sylvan Lake. Tunnels are one lane to drive through, but there are a few on this route.
Parking at Sylvan is difficult due to popularity during the day, but worth the stop to walk around the lake. Pack a lunch to take with you and eat at a picnic table. Brind a kayak and float around.
Hwy 16A brings you to Keystone. As you drive through tunnels also on this route, you can look closely and find Mt Rushmore in the distance. We found this highway to have more tree cover and was driving through with the windows down was so relaxing.
Fall is beautiful with the sunny weather, temperatures and wildlife. Honestly, we only go in the Fall time because we have loved the atmosphere and weather so much. Latest time has been last week of September, many of the touristy places close down and you could be limited on open hotels.
- Mount Rushmore National Monument and Keystone
While Mount Rushmore is a part of the National Parks Service and free to enter, the parking lot is not free. In fact, the America the Beautiful NPS Annual Pass does not work for the parking lot. Sorry, you will have to pay the $10 parking fee. Is it worth it? Yes!
The main walk into the monument is so dramatic and easy walk. Find your state flag in the Flag Prominade. The Amphitheatre gives you the best view of the Presidents. Take your picture at the top, walk down to take a seat in the theater, or take the stairs down to walk the 1-mile trail around the base of the Presidents.
The Sculptors studio shows the history of Borglum’s design. Rangers talk of the construction of the mountain. And it’s a great bathroom stop along the walk. If you like to count steps on your watch, this is the walk for you. There are steps involved in the trail, but the path is really enjoyable. Take your time!
Find the secret passage to look right up at our First President! Continue around the curve back to the amphitheater by walking through tree covered paths.
While there is a gift shop, make your way to the Ranger station bookstore and get your Park Passport Cancelation stamp. This is also where to get your kids involved in the Junior Park Ranger program. Get the workbook, walk, learn, and write down your experiences. Then return to the Rangers to take your Park Pledge to be a Junior Ranger and Badge.
One the way out of the Monument, stop at Keystone for a Pizza at Eno’s on the Boardwalk. Dig for Gold after a mine tour at Big Thunder Gold Mine. Look at all the shops with Black Hills Gold.
At night, look for Mt Rushmore lit up with lights. Check to see if any special events are happening and take the time to go. Even if it’s just parking on the overlook points to gaze at beauty against the night sky.
- Bear Country USA outside Rapid City
Rapid city is a great city to use for hotel options if you don’t want to stay right in Keystone. Driving out of Keystone to Rapid city you will find a few touristy places you can stop.
Bear Country USA is a drive though wildlife park. Yes, I said drive through. You will drive through the caged areas for the animals. If you have kids, haven’t seen much wildlife of the area, or you are in the vehicle from point A-Keystone to point B-Rapid City or vise-versa then you should drive through.
Bears obviously, Elk, Wolves, Bighorn Sheep, Buffalo, Pronghorn, Reindeer, and lots more. Morning is best for the animals to be active.
Rapid City was the easiest way to get to on our way to Badlands National Park on I-90. Reptile Museum is next to Bear Country USA. South Dakota Air and Space Museum is outside of Ellsworth Airforce Base east of Rapid City.
- Badlands NP
Badlands National Park is south of I-90 at the Wall exit. While Wall Drug is well known from the signs you see all over S. Dakota, it’s actually a neat stop. Hotels and restaurants are available in town also. If you are staying in Rapid city, its only 1-hour drive to Badlands.
First thing in the morning or sunset is a great time to enter the park. Why you ask? 2 reasons. First, wildlife is most active in these times, and many can be seen from the road. Secondly, temperature in the summer can make the early time easier for hikes.
The America the Beautiful Pass does work for entrance fee into the park. If you pay the $30 entrance, it is valid for 7 days so don’t lose your ticket.
Big horn sheep, Buffalo, and Prairie dogs were the wildlife we found while in the park. Most of the time we have a list of animals we haven’t seen yet and want to check off the list.
Big horn sheep reside in the park. We often see what we assume is a family. They also have necklaces on (tracking sensors) so they can be monitored by the park service.
There are so many trails to hike within the park. As a kid I remember going the Badlands NP during our family vacations and thinking that this was better than Disney because you didn’t have to wait in lines, and you could climb everything! Really, its allowed to climb and walk the land with their Open Hike Policy. Just don’t be unsafe or disruptive to the park please.
There drive through the park is beautiful. Take every stop overlook or parking lot you can. The park map had a lot of trails to walk. You might be surprised the view beyond the parking lot and after the boardwalk ends.
Climb to the tops of the buttes (that’s all the pretty colored peaks) and take a deep breath as you turn 360 degrees to see all the beauty.
The view from Saddle Pass Trail is so worth the climb. Moderate is strenuous climb. Notch trail with Notch Ladder are great stops. Door trail allows you to continue past the boardwalk and literally feel like walking on Mars might be like. Fossil Exhibit is entirely boardwalk, but across the road is the entrance to the Castle trail which is Open Hike.
Most of the hiking can be done with 0.5 to 1.5mile trails, then expand to the Open Hike areas of Back country off trails. We spent the entire day in Badlands and have return many times to explore new areas that we didn’t visit the last time.
If you get the chance to stay till sunset, find a parking area and just look at the beauty. You don’t want to be driving when the sky lights up with the red, purples and pinks. Then turn around and look at the stone colors that shine like fire.
Western Nebraska and S. Dakota have so much to offer for quick road trip events from 3 days to a more relaxed 5 days.
As a part of our interests, we always try to find the National Parks Service Passport stamp. This was really only our 2nd trip using the stamp book. I really like the Park cancelation book because we can see where we have been and the dates.
Buy the Passport book version you like, visit the park visitor centers and stamp your book for free. Add extra stamps that some of the locations have. Or ask a Ranger if they have a Secret Stamp for their park.
Wind Cave NP- 1 stamp Visitor Center
Mt Rushmore NM- 2 Stamps Ranger Information Center, Borglum VC
Extra: Mt Rushmore faces stamp at Ranger Information Center
Badlands NP- 2 stamps Ben Reifel VC, White River VC
Extra: Ospra South Unit stamp
Hotel options:
- You can move hotels every night as you travel through the state. With online access this is an easy option to schedule the next night before checking out that day.
- Or you can pick 1 central location in either Keystone or Rapid City. This has been an easy option if we find a good and affordable hotel since many of the places are an hour away.
Transportation:
These parks are spread far enough apart, having your own transportation is really needed. Towns are close enough that 20 minutes of driving will get you to the next town, food, and gas. Go off the normal vehicle plan, take a motorcycle for a day.
This trip was taken before the kids, before marriage, and while we thought it was easy to go and do whatever we wanted easily. While that was true, these places are just as great years later as we took our kids to experience it. First time at age 4 and later age 10, they loved every pull off area to climb a rock or walk a trail.
Keep chasing the Sun and go climb a mountain!
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